Beaune 1er cru "Les Perrières" 2008

Le millésime

La météo fut capricieuse en 2008 avec un hiver assez doux suivi d'un printemps et été pour l'essentiel frais et humides qui ont freiné la maturité des raisins et permis le développement de la pourriture. Aussi, fin août les regards étaient inquiets surtout lorsque l'on regardait la météo qui prévoyait encore une semaine de temps froid et pluvieux. Puis vint le miracle, le 13 septembre, la Bise, ce vent du nord, frais et sec, se leva enfin pour éclaircir le ciel de tout nuage, il souffla pendant trois semaines environ. C'était exactement ce qu'il nous fallait : de la lumière pour achever la maturité, puis des nuits froides pour conserver l'acidité, et enfin un vent sec pour stopper et sécher la pourriture. Il suffisait alors d'attendre... Nous avons commencé les vendanges fin septembre dans la fraîcheur et la luminosité d'un soleil radieux. In fine, même si les quantités sont faibles, 2008 est une très belle surprise, un millésime très bourguignon avec des arômes issus d'une maturation tardive qui ne sont pas sans rappeler ceux de 1978.

 Notes de dégustation

- Palish red. Fruity aromas of cherry and leather. Juicy, leanish and savory, with floral, minty lift and a solid spine of minerality. Finishes with good cut. (My sample of the Beaune Sizies was in a distinctly volatile stage of its evolution in barrel.)  By Stephen TANZER

-De Montille's 2008 Beaune Les Perrieres combines meat broth, crushed stone, and nut oils with tart hints of dark berries. Like its counterpart from the Sizies, this is a bit short on charm, but as it opens up, notes of game and forest floor convey intriguing complexity, and there is impressive length, incorporating a saliva-inducing salinity. This should prove quite adaptable over the next 5-7 years, though I would reassess it along the way before I'd considering holding it for a more extended period. (While the Sizies benefited from around one-third stems and whole clusters, the Perrieres and Greves received double that.) Etienne de Montille related having taken great pains in early September, 2008 to stave-off encroaching rot and promote ripeness, and felt that his rigorous leaf-pulling and crop-thinning – not to mention eventual triage – paid off sufficiently that he could vinify a substantial portion of the 2008 crop in his preferred manner, utilizing a high proportion of stems and whole clusters (100% in the case of this year's grand crus and top premier crus). Those wines for which a point spread is indicated were all last tasted shortly before their early spring bottling as finished assemblages in tank – whence they had been racked at the end of 2009 because de Montille did not think their fruit density or lees quality would have supported longer barrel-elevage. (Despite my longstanding predilection for de Montille and his wines, I regret to report that time and circumstance conspired to keep me from tasting his 2007s.) - Drink 2010 – 2017  -  Review by David Schildknecht

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