Volnay 1er cru "Les Mitans" 2009

The vintage

We harvested between the 5th and 18th of September.

The 2009 vintage arrived softly with a mild spring and a rather hot June and July, even if rains tried to upset the weather's balance at the end of July and for part of August. The harvest began fairly early, especially for Domaine and Maison de Montille, where freshness, precision and balance are always favored rather risking over-ripeness. We started on the 5th and finished on the 18th of September. The results give a freshness and balance on the palate that favor a lift and a savoriness in our wines that don't give a typical impression of the vintage.

2009 is an excellent red wine vintage. Its quality compares to 2005, even if the profile of these two vintages and their optimal drinking windows are different. In fact, the 2009s resemble the 1959s or perhaps the 1989s with their ripe, yet still crackling red fruits as well as some black cherry notes melting into a background of spices mixed in with floral notes, if for no other reason than that we left in whole clusters, which we often do.

The mouthfeels are suave and vinous with freshly acidic notes and finely tuned a tannic structure that gives the wines more suppleness than the 2005s. The finishes are persistent and fresh to the point of being vibrant.

Most will be ready to drink between 2015 and 2025, while the Grands Premiers Crus and the Grands Crus can wait until 2030 or even 2040 and will be magnificent bottles.

Tasting notes

-(100% vendange entier; just 20% new oak) Good medium red. Deep but subdued aromas of dark fruits, chocolate and licorice; one smells the smaller grapes here. Then big, rich and tactile in the mouth; a step up in concentration and texture over the Beaune samples. Finishes with excellent saline persistence. 91-90 Stephen Tanzer

-25+ year old vines; 100% stems - A fascinating nose of dried rose petal, spice and ultra-pure essence of pinot liqueur aromas gives way to beautifully detailed and lacy middle weight flavors that are precise to the point of being crystalline, indeed this is like rolling rocks around in your mouth on the delicate but driving finish. This understated effort should be excellent after 6 to 8 years of cellar time. Comments: Sweet spot Outstanding Tasted: May 06, 2011 - Score: 91-93 - Drink: 2017+ Burghound Issue 42

-The 2009 Volnay Mitans presents a more authoritative personality than the Champans. Dark fruit, sweet herbs, minerals and crushed flowers are some of the nuances that emerge from this textured Burgundy. This has an element of roundness and gravitas I find especially appealing mixed with sweet floral notes on the finish. The Mitans was made with 100% whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. Rating 91-92 - Maturity Drink: 2019 - 2029 Source Wine Advocate #194 May 2011 - Antonio Galloni