Volnay 1er cru "En Champans" 2009
We harvested between the 5th and 18th of September.
The 2009 vintage arrived softly with a mild spring and a rather hot June and July, even if rains tried to upset the weather's balance at the end of July and for part of August. The harvest began fairly early, especially for Domaine and Maison de Montille, where freshness, precision and balance are always favored rather risking over-ripeness. We started on the 5th and finished on the 18th of September. The results give a freshness and balance on the palate that favor a lift and a savoriness in our wines that don't give a typical impression of the vintage.
2009 is an excellent red wine vintage. Its quality compares to 2005, even if the profile of these two vintages and their optimal drinking windows are different. In fact, the 2009s resemble the 1959s or perhaps the 1989s with their ripe, yet still crackling red fruits as well as some black cherry notes melting into a background of spices mixed in with floral notes, if for no other reason than that we left in whole clusters, which we often do.
The mouthfeels are suave and vinous with freshly acidic notes and finely tuned a tannic structure that gives the wines more suppleness than the 2005s. The finishes are persistent and fresh to the point of being vibrant.
Most will be ready to drink between 2015 and 2025, while the Grands Premiers Crus and the Grands Crus can wait until 2030 or even 2040 and will be magnificent bottles.
- (two-thirds vendange entier; racked in September) Medium red. Pure aromas of dark cherry, blackberry, mocha and bitter chocolate. Supple and sweet on the front half, then fairly tannic on the back, with strong pepper and spice notes from the stems. This firmly structured wine will require at least a few years of bottle aging. 88-91 Stephen Tanzer
-This offers a notable step up in aromatic breadth with intense floral nuances as well as earth, wet stone, underbrush and a hint of spice. The rich, powerful and focused flavors possess plenty of dry extract that confers a velvety texture to the mid-palate yet the moderately austere finish is quite fine, indeed almost delicate. A lovely effort that should age beautifully.
Tasted: May 06, 2011 - Score: 92 - Drink: 2019+ - Comments: Outstanding - Burghound Issue 42
-The Champans has another complex bouquet that draws you in..it must be the 30% stem addition. And it works (unlike some other wines.) The palate is medium-bodied with light, airy tannins, an attractive weightlessness here with a fragrant, elegant finish that is quintessential Volnay. Very fine. Very "true". 91-93 Neal Martin
-The 2009 Volnay Champans is a fresh, floral wine graced with delicate layers of red fruit. This shows good weight and depth in a medium-bodied, accessible style. The Champans was made with 67% whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Rating 89 - Maturity Drink: 2014 - 2024
Source Wine Advocate #194 May 2011 - Antonio Galloni