Volnay 1er cru "En Champans" 2007
For those of us who like fresh and refreshing wines with fairly low alcohol and bright acidity accompanied by correct aromatic and phenolic maturities, we have been waiting for this vintage for a long time ! The hot and warm months of April and May forewarned an early harvest, likely at the end of August, but the weather changed to chilly and rainy for the rest of the summer. We pushed back the harvest dates because, as was generally the case for this vintage, one of the keys to success was that it could not be rushed. We started at
the very end of August with the reds, and after a few days break, we picked the whites.
The reds show a very fresh nose with vibrant red fruit aromas of raspberry and red currant along with floral notes. We chose to use a significant portion of whole clusters in the fermentation because the grape and stem quality was high. The mouthfeels are full, fleshy and generous. The noses are vibrantly intense ; the tannins are fine, silky and integrated with the fruit ; and overall, there is a sensation of balance and freshness that persists through the long, mineral finish. As for whites, the 2007 vintage represents what we like in noble white wines : grace, heightened minerality and lots of restraint..
- (from a mix of 10 and 30 year old vines; 70% stems). An extremely attractive set of relatively high-toned red berry fruit aromas with undertones of earth, crushed herb, wet stone and a hint of the sauvage merge into fresh, intense and beautifully detailed medium-bodied flavors underpinned by firm structural elements including obviously minerality that lends a textured feeling to the focused finish. This is also on the lighter side but the balance and flavor authority
are most impressive. (90-92)/2013+
Allen MEADOWS' – BURGHOUND
- Medium red. Sexy aromas of redcurrant, strawberry and smoked meat. Chewy, firmly built and rather backward, with a saline quality to the spice and mineral flavors. Showing little in the way of easy sweetness today but finishes with excellent breadth and fine-grained tannins.
By Stephen TANZER