Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2013
Harvest begun on October 1st and was narrowed down to a week.
With a cold and rainy spring, 2013 vintage started of badly. a late flowering (3 weeks) leading to a heterogeneous fruit set was announcing a low yield for the third year in a row.
Then, came the salvaging summer: A warm and sunny weather allowed for a perfect vegetative condition and we caught up one week on fruit development.
A damp September showcased our organic and Biodynamic methods: while Botrytis pressure was rising high in the vineyard, our berries were ripening slowly but surely, allowing us to harvest before October’s storms which clearly degraded the situation.
Once again, the Côte de Beaune suffered hail storms in 2013, the worst one on July 23rd. However, despite important losses, the quality was barely affected. Indeed, with up to 2 months between those events and harvest, the vines recovered and the damaged bunches dried and fell.
“2013 is the kind of vintage that I absolutely love. It’s a burg geek’s vintage par excellence.” Allen Meadows
2013 is a cool vintage with a fresh, elegant, crisp flesh. The wines are showing well since the first tasting in barrels and our village wine should come to maturity quickly. As for any good vintage, the 1er and Grands crus will provide pleasure in their youth (5yo) and for a long time. To preserve this vintage’s fruit, we chose to destem most of our wine on the Côte de Beaune, except for the Corton (2/3 whole cluster) and Volnay Mitans and Taillepieds (respectively 1/3 and 100%). In the Côte de Nuits where the stem maturity and the absence of hail allowed it, we kept around 2/3 of whole cluster, asserting our style.
-The whole cluster vinification is clearly in evidence as here the nose is intensely floral with ample spice and tea elements adding breadth to the cool and pure mélange of both red and dark pinot fruit. The mouth feel of the medium weight plus flavors is impressively refined in large part thanks to the dense but fine tannins that shape the lingering and wonderfully persistent finish. De Montille has consistently done a very fine job with his Clos de Vougeot and 2013 will only add to that growing string of successes.
Score: 92-95 Tasted: Apr 15, 2015 Drink: 2025+ Issue: 58
Allen Meadows, BURGHOUND