Chablis 1er Cru " Montée de Tonnerre" 2010

The vintage

We began the 18th and finished the 30th of September 2010.

After a challenging winter where frost affected lots of vineyards and caused many young plants to die, 2010 began a bit behind schedule but with the softness of a rather hot spring. However, flowering didn't have the advantage of good weather, and this resulted in poor fruit set (coulure) and an abnormal mix of berry sizes within clusters (millerandage). Summer got off to a good start with a lovely first half of July. However, moody and chilly weather then set in until the beginning of September, when Burgundy's best helper in that month, a wind called la Bise (the Kiss), cleared the skies for a radiant sun to dry the vines while temperatures remained fresh.

The harvest date was, as is often the case, of utmost importance, and it is the reason we only purchase grapes harvested by our own team or under our control.

2010 is a grand vintage for whites, as it combines generosity and flesh with acidity and minerality. The aromas are ripe with the occasional exotique note and floral hints set against a citrusy background. The mouthfeels are packed with flavor, supple, and even powerful with their significant substance; however, happily their bouyant acidities provide remarkable balance.

The wines show well now even if the best cuvées, like Puligny "Le Cailleret" and Corton-Charlemagne, will improve with another seven to ten years.

Tasting notes

-This possesses a mildly curious nose for what is widely considered the finest 1er in Chablis as there are distinct spice bread nuances along with more typical citrus, floral and oyster shell aromas. The detailed, intense and solidly precise flavors ooze a fine minerality on the round, delicious and ever-so-mildly sweet finish. This is pretty enough but it must be said that it's not really what I expect from Chablis.

Score: 89-91 Tasted: Jun 01, 2012 Drink: 2015+ Issue: 47   Allen Meadows