Bourgogne "Le Clos du Château" 2013
We harvest for two weeks, beginning on September 26th, in order to pick every block at the right maturity. It had been decades harvest had not begun this late.
With a cold and rainy spring, 2013 vintage started of badly. a late flowering (3 weeks) leading to a heterogeneous fruit set was announcing a low yield for the third year in a row.
Then, came the salvaging summer: A warm and sunny weather allowed for a perfect vegetative condition and we caught up one week on fruit development.
A damp September showcased our organic and Biodynamic methods: while Botrytis pressure was rising high in the vineyard, our berries were ripening slowly but surely, allowing us to harvest before October’s storms which clearly degraded the situation.
Once again, the Côte de Beaune suffered hail storms in 2013, the worst one on July 23rd. However, despite important losses, the quality was barely affected. Indeed, with up to 2 months between those events and harvest, the vines recovered and the damaged bunches dried and fell.
“2013 is the kind of vintage that I absolutely love. It’s a burg geek’s vintage par excellence.” Allen Meadows
The slow maturation of the berries delayed the drop in acidy while maintaining sugars and developing a rich aromatic profile. The low yields and globally cool growing season produced unique wines, with a superlative tension, which beautifully reveal their terroir. Those qualities describe great cellaring-potential whites which, as always for the Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet wines, are already quite open.
-An expressive nose mixes notes of both white and yellow orchard fruit with supple, racy and intense flavors that possess a discreet hint of minerality on the nicely complex and lingering finish that is ever-so-mildly austere. This bright effort offers fine quality for its level and should repay a few years of cellaring as well.
Score: 86-88 Tasted: Jun 15, 2015 Drink: 2017+ Issue: 59
Allen Meadows, BURGHOUND