"Aux Malconsorts - Christiane" 1er cru de Vosne Romanée 2008
The weather in 2008 was capricious with a fairly mild winter followed by a spring and summer that were essentially cool and damp, slowing the maturation of the grapes and permitting the development of rot. Additionally, at the end of August, we worried when the meteorologists predicted another week of cold and rainy weather. Then, a miracle occurred. On September 13, "la Bise", which is a cool and dry north wind, arrived, clearing the sky of clouds. It blew for about three weeks. This was exactly what was needed. There was sunshine to help the grapes achieve maturity, cold nights to preserve the grapes' acidity, and finally, a dry wind to stop and dry out the rot. We just had to wait.... Harvest began at the end of September with radiating sunshine but cool temperatures. In the end, even if the quantities are small, 2008 is a very lovely surprise, a very Burgundian vintage with aromas deriving from the late maturation and reminding us of 1978.
- (100% whole clusters; from 80-, 45- and 27-year-old vines) Bright, deep red. Much less expressive on the nose than the "regular" Malconsorts. Lower in pitch and less fruity now, with brooding soil tones of smoky earth and herbs. Compellingly spherical, ripe and classically dry Malconsorts with dark, brooding, smoky flavors. This very deep but youthfully unforthcoming wine is really dramatically different today from the basic cuvee Finishes with outstanding persistence.92
By Stephen TANZER
- Here the nose is spicier still with copious Vosne-style spice, dried rose petal, hoisin and soy nuances, both of which continue onto the supple and round medium weight flavors that are graceful, classy and long, all wrapped in a less obviously powerful finish where there is even better length. The presence of the stems is discernible on the backend but overall, this is an extremely stylish effort.