"Aux Malconsorts" 1er Cru de Vosne Romanée 2012

The vintage

The harvest began September 17 and continued through the end of the month.

Recalling the 2012 vintage brings on two different sentiments. For one, there is the great satisfaction to have an excellent vintage in terms of quality, especially in red. For another, there is the profound disappointment of tiny yields accompanied by the hail devastation of many vines, from Santenay up to Pommard. The weather was difficult at the beginning of the season but improved around mid-July, which saved the quality of the vintage. Concerning the yields, they are very low, and everything that could have contributed to lowering them happened in 2012: small flowering, poor fruit set, uneven berry size...and unfortunately, hail.

The aromas have a rare complexity and elegance. They offer an astonishing bouquet of spices, cherry pits, black fruits, dried flowers, musk and hard candies. The textures are simultaneously dense and ethereal. The attacks are brisk and the mid-palates are etheral and lengthy. The tannins are soft and well-wrapped in intense fruit that vascilates between tangy and sweet. The suave finishes offer refreshment and persistence.

We left two-thirds whole clusters in Beaune Perrières, Beaune Grèves and Volnay Mitans and 100% in Volnay Les Taillepieds, Corton Clos du Roi and all the Côte de Nuits cuvées, including in our village level Nuits-St-Georges « Les Saints-Juliens ». These are all wines to age for at least ten years, even 20-25 years for the Grand Crus and « Grand » Premier Crus from the Côte de Nuits.

This is quite rare, but we have found slight reduction in most of the wines. As such, we advise to decant them about one hour if they are being tasted before they reach ten years old.

Tasting notes

- This was sufficiently reduced to hide the fruit though not so much that the floral characters could not be perceived. This is a big wine even by the considerable standards of a classic Malconsorts with an overt muscularity to the concentrated yet impressively refined mouth feel to the utterly delicious flavors that are shaped by markedly firm tannins that are so well buffered by the rich dry extract that the wonderfully persistent finish is once again not especially austere. This should be excellent if given at least 7 to 10 years in a cool cellar though note that it should continue to improve for several years after that.
Score: 92-94 Tasted: Apr 15, 2014 Drink: 2024+ Issue: 54 Outstanding - Allen Meadows

-100% whole bunch. 60% new oak (Hubert may disapprove). Bit of reduction. But racy, transparent, very healthy fruit. Tight finish. Not quite as intense as the Clos Vougeot today but with great energy. Score: 17.5 Jancis Robinson

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